Portland(ia) Part 3 - SE Portland

Portland's SE is incredibly beautiful food and drink wise, and once heading down towards Division, everything gets lush, leafy and residential which made for a beautiful bike ride on our rainy Thursday in town. Here's what we loved:

Heart Coffee Roasters (2211 E Burnside) - It was difficult not to fall in love with Heart as soon as we walked in the door. The smell of coffee was immediate and as we looked to the right of the entrance there were two guys tending to beans in their roaster situated in the middle of the room. Our coffee and service was excellent during both visits, and a couple French presses had at restaurants around town were similarly lovely.

Pok Pok (3226 SE Division) - Though Pok Pok has opened Pok Pok Noi in the NE, it was hard to pass up the original. Like the Schnitzelwich at Tábor, I'm not entirely sure all the food here lived up to the hype (how could it possibly?), however, the "Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings" were amazing. I also had a pomegranate Drinking Vinegar which was the perfect fizzy accompaniment.

D Street Noshery (3221 SE Division) - I discussed this in the "Food Carts" post earlier, but once again, this place is right across the street from Pok Pok, and they've got some great carts. Including a tapped beer truck.

Le Pigeon (738 E Burnside St.) - It was a big toss up between Little Bird (Le Pigeon's sister restaurant) and St. Jack, which are all doing excellent French style food a la NW, however, we were quite happy with our trip to Le Pigeon. We had crispy octopus with nectarine, porcini and truffle, Rabbit with salami risotto, gouda and fennel and shared the Beef Cheek Bourguignon as a main.

And for dessert we had to do the foie gras profiteroles. Super rich, sweet and salty - is their any food more perfect? We enjoyed everything at the 'chef's counter' around the open kitchen and the sous serving our food was incredibly friendly and helpful. A lovely evening. I just wish we could have made it back for a burger...

Integrity Spirits (909 SE Yamhill St.) - Though we were hoping to check out more of 'Distillery Row', we only had time to stop at Integrity Spirits on our last day in town. Though my intent was simply to purchase a bottle of gin to bring back for afternoon gin and tonics with my grandmother, we ended up staying for tasting at the urge of the friendly man in the shop. Their 12 Bridges Gin is beautiful and more flavourful than any spirit I've ever tried.

We also sampled both a Saffron and Tarragon Vodka and fell in love, especially when the former was mixed with mango purée for a lasee type effect, and the latter with Limoncello for a simple but lovely cocktail. We ended up with a bottle of the Tarragon Vodka in our suitcase next to the gin. Integrity Spirits is also the first distillery to re-introduce Absinthe to the U.S. market. Since it was noon, we passed this one up.

As always, there were places we didn't get to:

Apizza Scholls (4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd.) - We passed this place whilst it was closed and longed to return, but their short 4 hour window and distance from our home base just didn't allow us to sample one of the top five pizza spots in the U.S.

Nostrana (1401 SE Morrison) - Like many of the restaurants we visited, Nostrana uses lots of NW ingredients but with Italian preparation.

Castanga (1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd.) - We didn't do any formal-ish dinners in Portland, but if we did, this would have been the spot. Apparently the food is amazing and it's on the list for next time.

Portland(ia) Part 2 - Northeast Portland

Northeast Portland served as our home base for the entire week we were in town and we probably could have entertained ourselves in this neighbourhood for our entire stay. Many of the restaurants found in South Portland - like Cha Cha Cha or Pok Pok - have opened locations in the area, plus there are all the originals that call NE home, like Gravy, Tasty n Sons, Ned Ludd and Toro Bravo, just to name a few.

Accommodations

Though we love hotels, we decided to try vacation rentals this trip. Not only were many of the rentals we found nearly 1/3 of the price of hotels, but they were situated in less touristy, residential areas, which we loved. Furthermore, our hosts for the week were able to give us some great tips on shops, restaurants and sites. We never would have seen 'The Swifts' or made it to The Meadow if it weren't for Heather.

The 'Piedmont Cottage' was incredibly well situated - bike routes to and from downtown were just a couple blocks away and downtown itself was a 20 minute ride. It was also an easy 5 minute ride down Albina to get to the shops and restaurants on Mississippi Avenue. As far as getting to and from the airport and Union Station, MAX ran from the airport to the train, and once arriving back from Corvalis we were able to take transit (the MAX or the number 4) up to Piedmont easily. And finally, there was a gigantic rose garden across the street - Portland is, after all, the city of roses.

Food

Ned Ludd (3925 NE MLK Jr. Blvd.) - This was the first restaurant we visited in Portland and it was fantastic. The wood fired oven that served the former pizza restaurant is still being put to good use - all the food is cooked in it. We enjoyed fresh, wood fired flat bread, whole trout stuffed with fennel and dill, smoky, rich ratatouille and finally s'mores made with chocolate from Xocolatl de Davíd.

The Albina Press (4637 N Albina) - A coffee shop perfectly situated on an easy route downtown, they made excellent cappuccinos and lattés utilizing Stumptown Coffee. Wireless, reading material and fresh pastries were also readily available.

Lovely's Fifty Fifty (4039 N Mississippi) - We were directed to this spot by the Pedal Bike Tours people and couldn't be happier with their recommendation. Lovely's features wood fired pizza and homemade hard scoop ice cream, and both were amazing (hence the half hour wait to get in). A pickled beet salad with Oregon hazelnuts and blue cheese as well as a sweet corn pizza with caramelized onions and pancetta made it to our table for dinner. For dessert, Charles went with a scoop of salted caramel, while I decided on the peach buttermilk. We definitely wouldn't hesitate to return.

Tasty n Sons (3808 N Williams) - This was one of those spots I saw on the Chow Tour of Portland, and once we realized it was in the neighbourhood, we decided to head over for breakfast. Toast and jam, the breakfast board, the beautiful potato donut and unlimited coffee came to $20 even, including tip. We were full of food, and amazed.

Gravy (3957 N Mississippi) - After waiting in line for sometime to get into this busy spot, we were served tasty, gigantic plates of food. While Charles did his toast-bacon plate, I went for an omelette filled with mushrooms and peppers and smothered with sausage gravy (how could you not have gravy at a place called 'Gravy'?).

The Meadow (3731 N Mississippi) - I was easily wowed by The Meadow. An entire wall of chocolate, another of 'finishing salts' and another full of bitters. The place was quite dreamy.

For my chocolate stash

Ruby Jewel Scoop Shop (3713 N Mississippi) - We ended up at this spot twice late into the evening, lured by the smell of fresh waffle cones and cookies. There were scoops of caramel with salted chocolate and on our final evening in town, a hazelnut-chocolate ice cream sandwiched between double chocolate cookies.

Saraveza Bottle Shop and Pasty Tavern (1004 N Killingsworth) - If I left my heart anywhere in Portland, it would certainly be here. The walls are lined with bottles of beer to be opened in house or taken home to be enjoyed, and there are eight taps which rotate every few days (mostly with brews from the NW coast) to serve in house patrons and growler fillers alike. And the pasties. While Charles adored the beef, I ended up with a daily special coconut curry pork that was particularly excellent. For dessert, an apple pasty with Carlton Cyder's 'Citizen' apple cider ice cream. It was a beautiful way to end the week in Portland.

Portland(ia) Part 1 - Food Carts

I wasn't really sure where to start discussing our stops in Portland and Seattle. Between the two cities, Portland was easily our favourite - the food and drink, the affordability and the bike-ability all made the place incredibly loveable. That said, Seattle had its charms... and oysters.

We could have eaten at food carts for our entire stay in Portland - there are over 200 operating at any one time - but with so many great restaurants around the city, we found ourselves at the carts for just about four meals, mostly sharing one item and checking out two or three carts for each meal. Here's who we hit:

The Peoples' Pig (11th and Alder) - After raves on Food Carts Portland, we had to head to this one for a porchetta sandwich ($8). It was amazing - moist, flavourful, and peppery from a nice handful of arugula. This cart also featured a few specials, and we ended up with a cone of refreshing watermelon and arugula salad ($3), that went well with our sandwich.

Just some of the carts on Alder between 9th and 11th

Flogene's Home Cooking (11th and Alder) - About five carts down from our first cart was Flogene's, and we thought it best to follow our sandwich with some fried chicken and a biscuit ($6). The fried chicken was tasty, albeit slightly greasy. The biscuit, however, was perfect in every way; flaky, buttery and tangy from the buttermilk.

Nong's Khao Man Gai (9th and Alder) - Nong's cart has received a ton of press and after we tasted her chicken and rice ($6), we can certainly see why. The garlic-y ginger sauce was beautiful and this $6 dish was easily one of the best things we ate over our entire trip.

Noodle House (10th and Alder) - Whilst we were in Portland we happened upon this review of the Noodle House, that praised hand pulled noodles with squid and shrimp ($7.5). While I had the seafood - which easily lived up to the hype - Charles selected the chicken noodles ($6.5) which he was completely happy with. Though the noodles were lovely, the portions were quite large, and neither of us could finish our dishes.

Tábor Czech Food (5th and Stark) - The Schnitzelwich ($8) from Tábor was certainly on my list even before heading down. Though I don't think it quite lived up to the hype, the pork loin version of this sandwich was certainly tasty.

Boolkogi Taco (5th and Stark) - This cart was irresistible, and we got three tasty 'Boolkogi' beef tacos for just $5.

The Pie Spot (D Street Noshery at 32nd and Division) - After lunch at Pok Pok, we couldn't resist heading across the street to check out the carts at D Street. I only wish our stomachs hadn't been so full. We did, however, find room for maple pecan pie ($3.5). Sadly we had to miss Awesome Cone and Captured by Porches Brewing. D Street is definitely on the list next time we're in town.

Although we were staying in the Mississippi area, we never did make it to Mississippi Marketplace, where I was hoping to get my hands on some of the creations from Garden State. Once again, next time.

Since Portland is "A city of neighbourhoods" (I heard that at least a dozen times and read it in articles and guide books even more), I'm going to split restaurants up by NE, Downtown/Pearl and SE Portland, plus there will be one more post on Corvallis/Oregon coast and some general thoughts on Portland. We're doing some post-holiday catch up right now, but I promise I'll get on it soon!

Ein Prosit! Oktoberfest at Next Act

On Tuesday I met up with some friends at Next Act for their September edition of Cask Night. This month the cask held Alley Kat's Ein Prosit! Oktoberfest - a fruity, malty beer that's perfect for fall. It was so lovely we even went over to Alley Kat this evening for the official launch of the brew and picked up a six pack. (The Red Dragon Double IPA was also released today. Unlike the above brew, this IPA is incredibly hoppy.)

Besides the beer, Next Act was featuring a slightly strange burger that I couldn't resist - a peanut butter and bacon jam burger. Not surprisingly, the combo was incredibly rich, though it was tasty. Smooth peanut butter covered the bottom half of the bun, while jam and lots of garlic covered the top half. I was a fan at first bite, and I think Brenna was too.

All in all, another excellent cask night in Edmonton.

Let's go for tacos - Tres Carnales

We've been to Tres Carnales a few times since they opened back in July. I don't think I have much more to add to the many posts out there, but I will add Charles and I to the lengthy list of others who love this spot.

Charles is addicted to the carnitas and pollo asado (as are many of the Folk Fest staff - these and their guac seriously livened up post-teardown) while I have a soft spot for the creamy-sweet rajas con crema with a Negra Modelo on the side. And again, like everyone else, we seriously appreciate the warm decor and well chosen music, especially since we seem to end up at the spot on cool, rainy days.

This past week we ended up stopping by twice - once for lunch with a friend and for dinner prior to Wednesday evening's Ray LaMontagne concert. Although it was a Wednesday, the place was, of course, packed and we got our order of carnitas tacos to go (I realized after ordering that they had the fish tacos! Yet another reason to head back.).

Ultimately we ended up in a cold and deserted Churchill square. But a coffee at Credo afterward was perfect and Ray LaMontagne was amazing. All in all, an excellent evening. And we can't wait for more tacos, whatever the weather.

Tres Carnales

10119 100A Street

780.429.0911